Ok. Now here's a REAL post. I promise. Now I have all the time in the world because this sun is just too hot and (as displayed in the previous post) it's just making me crazy. Where shall I start? Currently, we're still here in Arambol (we don't really want to leave) and Nechama and I desperately need this week for rest and relaxation. The past month had been so busy, and at times so stressful, that Nechama's immunity levels went down and she became ill (she's all fine now, except for a little sunburn). So this place is perfect for us. Each day we try a new restaurant, and introduce Israeli food to our non-Jewish companions (which they now LOVE) and talk on the beach by candlelight until the early hours of the morning. Quite some paradise.
The first day here we hired some scooters and explored some of the jungle/village area surrounding Arambol, and spent the afternoon on a deserted stretch named 'Paradise Beach'. It was nearly that, with the lapping waves and the fine sand, and except for some local Indians that began shooting birds in the sky (that scared the hell out of us - a shotgun on the beach? what the?) it was a near perfect day. And that was just the first!
But what I did miss out on telling you about was of our experiences in Rajasthan and Mumbai. I know that I must be repeating myself over and over again. But now with more detail...
Our camel safari in Jaisalmer was a special night as well. Waving goodbye to our driver (he wanted to join us, but we needed a break from him) we trotted off into the sunset on our camels - and I had a beast of a camel. He was HUGE. But not only was he a good size gamal, he couldn't control his bowels. First I thought maybe he just had fruity farts, but after a while (and being told by Nechama) I realised that my lovely beast and I have something in common - unpredictable tummies! Thankgod I have been ok so far. So we watched the sunset sitting on sandunes, taking glamour photos of ourselves in the pink and purple light, and then made a fire to give us some light in the dark. But in the end we didn't really need a fire, for the moon was nealry full, and it lit up the entire sky. It was so luminous it was difficult to even see the stars!
After eating dinner out under the diamond sky (and it was delicious too - I'm not the biggest fan of Rajasthani food, a little too dry and overwhelmingly spicy (and not in the good way) but this was tasty!) the boss of the camel drivers/camp took us to a nearby village where traditional Rajasthani dancers were twirling around a fire. Nechama went by motorcycle, an Kate and I bumped along on a cart pulled by a trotting camel. It was so much fun, with the wind whipping about us under the bright night sky. We were the only Westerners around (which has chanegd dramatically since arriving in Goa) and the only other tourists were drunk Indian men dancing with the Rajasthani dancers and making delightful fools out of themselves... If only ther wives were about....
That night we slept under the stars and the next day headed back to Jodhpur for one last time. In Jodphur we attempted to explore a Maharaja's palace that was converted into a hotel - and what a majestic hotel! The museum housed some lovely art deco pieces, and the entire building was an interesting combination of art deco, mughal and 19th century british architecture. Not that I know anything about it - but it kinda worked. Sort of. It actually was a little bit gross in size and style. But I wanted to see the hotel, a place where guests pay US$1400 a night for a suite, or more, so we pretended that I was interested in looking at hotels for my parents who are planning to come to India in December. Yes, I know, that sounds pretty far out there, but I told the lovely lady who stopped us in the main lobby that "My parents are interested in coming to India, but unlike myself (we were dressed in sloppy teeshirts and fisherman pants) they are looking for luxurious hotels to make their stay more comfortable. It's their thirtieth wedding anniversary, and I want to give them a special present during their stay in India." I even gave her some artificial dates of my parents expected arrival (thanks Mum and Dad!) and we found ourselves wandering through some corridoors of this exclusive residence. I'm sure she knew that we were bullshitting, and there was a waiter in the restaurant who gave us a smug look as if to say , "Yes, I've seen you allll before, I know EXACTLY what you're up to!" but we were glad that we had the opportunity to have a little bit of a sticky beak.
That night in Jodhpur we went to the Marwar Festival, a gig put on by the Rajasthani Tourism Department displaying traditional Rajasthani dancing and songs and turbaned moustached men singing off key. It was quite enjoyable, boring at times, but wherever we go, there's always an adventure to be had. First we sat in the local area at the back, but we couldn't see the stage and we kept receiving looks and jeers from the Indian men.
**(Side note - Indian men can be such perverts. Well, not perverts, but when they see Western women, most of them, just see sex objects. It's quite sad. While the women are expected to be demure and modest and keep to the rules, the men have no rules - just don't bring home the tourist to your wife. But you get used to it after a while and use the advantage to bargain or find out a yum place to eat. Yes, that's all I care about. Food. But the food here is INCREDIBLE! I love it! Sure, you can get crap food, and sometimes we have been unlucky. But I'm trying to work my way through the Punjabi cuisine (my favourite type of Indian food... its what we know back home as Indian - full of flavour, full of spice)- we'll see how it goes.)**
Then we sat with the Western tourists, but after watching a dance and a half we were a little bored and hungry. So we ate these lovely dishes off the side of the field - but spicy as hell! One was bread with this vegetable curry-esque (sabji) called pav bhaji, and the other was dry noodles, tomato, coriander, saffron, masala, chips, and peanuts called puri, and it was so tasty we went back for more. So there we were, sitting by ourselves devouring this delicious cheap eats, and some boys are sitting near us, and, of course, ask our names and where we're from. We responded politerly, and then one friend left and returned with three icecreams. He handed an icecream each to us, said "Have a good night" and left. That's all. No more conversation, no innuendos, nothing wanted in return. yum! unexpected, but free icecream! we stayed until the fireworks display was over (i LOVE fireworks... thankgod I'm in india where fire crackers go off ever couple hours at night!) and made our way home. But accompanying us back home a group of Indian college students (all boys, of course) decided to join us. "Where you from?""What you study?" "Are you sisters?" Do Nechama and I even LOOK like sisters?! They were harmless enough, but we decided to take a rickshaw back home (we were walking along the road) when the group turned into a mob of teenage boys. But we are superwomen. We can handle anything. Almost.
From Jodhpur we drove to a Rainforest hideaway resort called Ranakpur. Ranakpur really doesn't have much, aside from a lovely dam, gorgeous rainforests, and a Jain temple thats over 1000 years old. Maybe I'm wrong about the years, but I'l update it if its incorrect. But this temple was breathtaking. So intricate, such detail, walking through the complex in bare feet, our soles skimming the cool marble floor while we took ridiculous photos of ourselves in yoga poses. But Ranakpur was where our lovely roadtrip turned a little sour...
no time for that now. will update soon. love to all. shavuah tov. xxx and yes mum and dad, i'm still alive ;P
Saturday, October 21, 2006
Sunday, October 15, 2006
(not a real post)
Written about half a week ago...
Man. What a day. What a couple days. What a difference a shower can make. Man.
Nechama and I arrived in a little beach village in Goa, named Arambol - such a stark difference to the bustle and craziness of Rajasthan and Mumbai. Life turns much slower here - and I think it's what we both need.
We're currently staying in a tiny room above a German bakery a little off the beach - no hot water, but we do have a lovely fan that makes our lives that much more comfortable. After the refined treatment we have recieved during our roadtrip of rajasthan,we are going to be 'slumming' it during these next two months - and boy am I excited! No, seriously. This is the life.
Written this morning on an empty stomach...
This place is too seductive - we might never leave. The relaxed and sleepy pace of Arambol, the endless stretch of sand and warm clear water - how can you go wrong? We met back up with the British trio we bumped into at McLeod Ganj (Dharmasala, in the north of India) and now have a chilled little group of brits, irish, aussies and the lone argentinian.
I'm going to get some lunch now... i'll be back.
Man. What a day. What a couple days. What a difference a shower can make. Man.
Nechama and I arrived in a little beach village in Goa, named Arambol - such a stark difference to the bustle and craziness of Rajasthan and Mumbai. Life turns much slower here - and I think it's what we both need.
We're currently staying in a tiny room above a German bakery a little off the beach - no hot water, but we do have a lovely fan that makes our lives that much more comfortable. After the refined treatment we have recieved during our roadtrip of rajasthan,we are going to be 'slumming' it during these next two months - and boy am I excited! No, seriously. This is the life.
Written this morning on an empty stomach...
This place is too seductive - we might never leave. The relaxed and sleepy pace of Arambol, the endless stretch of sand and warm clear water - how can you go wrong? We met back up with the British trio we bumped into at McLeod Ganj (Dharmasala, in the north of India) and now have a chilled little group of brits, irish, aussies and the lone argentinian.
I'm going to get some lunch now... i'll be back.
Saturday, October 14, 2006
I Love Mumbai
I've lost twelve kilos. Yes, you heard me. Twelve kilos. Can you believe it? I can.
I spent two hours today at the Mumbai general post office arguing over the customs declaration of my precious baggage. Two hours filled with pleading, grateful smiles, batting eyelids, millions of questions as to why I can't just send home my old clothes and books and for the supervisor(who was standing there overlooking our arguments) - but, the end result was pleasing. I finally shook off those terrible twelve kilos. Ahh, now my backpack is wonderfully lighter (albeit still a little heavy - i don't want to know how much all my bits and pieces weighed before we arrived to the GPO).
I am in Mumbai/Bombay - one of my favourite cities in India so far. This incredible metropolis has it all - the sophistication, the slums, the thudding heat, the chaotic traffic, the suits bustling to work every morning, the crowded markets filled with junk and vegetables and jewellery and kitchen utensils, the department stores, the glitterati of Bollywood - and I love it. Nechama and I have been taking a slower pace since arriving here as we are both pretty run down after some little adventures that has taken us hostage over the past few days like a bad dream we never awoke from. But first I should backpeddle a little and explain briefly what I have been up to for the past couple weeks.
From Pushkar we went to the Blue city of Jodhpur - in which a maginificent fort (and within it extensive museums) dominated the landscape. In nearly every city from Delhi to Udaipur there are forts built by the Mughals - which can get sometimes quite repetative. But the fort in Jodhpur was worth it - we explored the tiny corridors and hidden rooms that were sectioned off for preservation purposes (we can't read english, we say in israeli accents!) and the rooms filled with mughal art and armory (yes, still with the swords) - trying to get that perfect photo for this post. Shame I cant put any up now, but it's coming. It will.
Jodhpur is called the Blue City because the rooftops of the houses of the old part of Jodhpur are painted this bright colour that form a blue sea. It's gorgeous - much more impressive than Jaipur (which is called the Pink city - but isn't really that pink... more like a burnt terracotta).
My gosh my memory is fading - so many things happened in so many days, they seem to melt into one another and when the time comes to write it down and share it with you, it all eludes me.......
In Jaisalmer we toured this ornate havelis (houses built in the 19th century for wealthy and/or important people, i put up pics and explain better later) and also endeavoured a camel safari... how appropriate that my camel had bowel issues, we trotted and heaved ourselves along the indian desert for a couple hours listening to the harmonies emitting from behind me (and smelling his 'perfume'). We watched the sunset atop some sand dunes and slept in the 'million star hotel' under the night sky... ok, i'm rushing now because nechama and i want to avoid this crazy documentary film maker we met this afternoon at a market who took us out to lunch and wrote his email address for us in invisible ink. Yes, i know i sound like i have drunk too many special lassis, but I will update this post asap... and describe to you the bad dream... wow, do i sound dramatic. keep you posted xxx
I spent two hours today at the Mumbai general post office arguing over the customs declaration of my precious baggage. Two hours filled with pleading, grateful smiles, batting eyelids, millions of questions as to why I can't just send home my old clothes and books and for the supervisor(who was standing there overlooking our arguments) - but, the end result was pleasing. I finally shook off those terrible twelve kilos. Ahh, now my backpack is wonderfully lighter (albeit still a little heavy - i don't want to know how much all my bits and pieces weighed before we arrived to the GPO).
I am in Mumbai/Bombay - one of my favourite cities in India so far. This incredible metropolis has it all - the sophistication, the slums, the thudding heat, the chaotic traffic, the suits bustling to work every morning, the crowded markets filled with junk and vegetables and jewellery and kitchen utensils, the department stores, the glitterati of Bollywood - and I love it. Nechama and I have been taking a slower pace since arriving here as we are both pretty run down after some little adventures that has taken us hostage over the past few days like a bad dream we never awoke from. But first I should backpeddle a little and explain briefly what I have been up to for the past couple weeks.
From Pushkar we went to the Blue city of Jodhpur - in which a maginificent fort (and within it extensive museums) dominated the landscape. In nearly every city from Delhi to Udaipur there are forts built by the Mughals - which can get sometimes quite repetative. But the fort in Jodhpur was worth it - we explored the tiny corridors and hidden rooms that were sectioned off for preservation purposes (we can't read english, we say in israeli accents!) and the rooms filled with mughal art and armory (yes, still with the swords) - trying to get that perfect photo for this post. Shame I cant put any up now, but it's coming. It will.
Jodhpur is called the Blue City because the rooftops of the houses of the old part of Jodhpur are painted this bright colour that form a blue sea. It's gorgeous - much more impressive than Jaipur (which is called the Pink city - but isn't really that pink... more like a burnt terracotta).
My gosh my memory is fading - so many things happened in so many days, they seem to melt into one another and when the time comes to write it down and share it with you, it all eludes me.......
In Jaisalmer we toured this ornate havelis (houses built in the 19th century for wealthy and/or important people, i put up pics and explain better later) and also endeavoured a camel safari... how appropriate that my camel had bowel issues, we trotted and heaved ourselves along the indian desert for a couple hours listening to the harmonies emitting from behind me (and smelling his 'perfume'). We watched the sunset atop some sand dunes and slept in the 'million star hotel' under the night sky... ok, i'm rushing now because nechama and i want to avoid this crazy documentary film maker we met this afternoon at a market who took us out to lunch and wrote his email address for us in invisible ink. Yes, i know i sound like i have drunk too many special lassis, but I will update this post asap... and describe to you the bad dream... wow, do i sound dramatic. keep you posted xxx
Tuesday, October 10, 2006
Purring in Udaipur
A post filled with stories, so she asks. Well here you go Alana, I'll try and cram as many interesting incidents into this one post wihtout boring the shit out of you, and also without incriminating myself... ahem.
I'm am writing from a gorgeous city named Udaipur, and I must admit it is one of the most beautiful cities of Rajasthan, and perhaps for most of the trip (excluding Dharmasala. That was magic. But enough about that!) It is (what a surprise, like Dharmasala) a hill station set in the mountains of this province, Rajasthan. The terrain varies across this province - from dusty polluted cities, to an oasis in the middle of the desert (Pushkar) to camel safaris in the sand dunes of the real desert, to this hill station of Udapiur, and all its majestic palaces.
But stories, she asks? Ok, let me pull some from the furthest corners of my memory... Pushkar evoked a series of different emotions from Nechama and I. This was the place we spent Yom Kippur - I find fasting difficult in Melbourne, especially towards the last couple hours - but here? In Pushkar? In the middle of a frickin desert? No water? What the? We arrived the day before the festival, and shopped within the sprawling marketplace and got cheated by Brahmin 'priests' promising blessings for our family in return for a nice donation. "But I don't believe in your god" - that doesn't work either, for "everyone's gods are the same -it's just different ways to reach up there" was the reply. Laden with flowers, rice, red and saffron coloured powder I threw caution (and the 'gifts') into the holy water of Pushkar. I understand that I prombably commited idolatry, but in my heart I didn't believeI word I was saying. The ideal situation the day of Erev Yom Kippur. Such a heathen I've become.
The meal before the fast was relaxed and comforting - most of the Israelis wore white and we ate in the back garden of the Chabad shule. The services were quite nice, a little different from Shira Hadasha but what can you do.
But stories - hrmm... that night we met up with an Indian who we previousdly met in Jaipur. He was a funny guy, 31 years old but acting like a little boy - he had just discovered alchohol three months ago. Now he's on a mission to drink for the next three - because "it's so much fun!" Excited and jittery like a toddler discovering a new toy, we learnt that he had smuggled meat and whiskey into the town (as Pushkar is a very holy city, no meat, alchohol or eggs are allowed to be brought into the city). He revelaed to us that six years ago he used to read palms, and then proceeded the read Nechama's palm... We have never been so freaked out. So apt, and we gave nothing away. I am usually quite cynical in situations like this - but when he was massaging her neck to get the 'bad energy' (or STRESS) his hand became white and his arm numb. It was freaky!
Ok, gotta run. Thinking of you all xx
I'm am writing from a gorgeous city named Udaipur, and I must admit it is one of the most beautiful cities of Rajasthan, and perhaps for most of the trip (excluding Dharmasala. That was magic. But enough about that!) It is (what a surprise, like Dharmasala) a hill station set in the mountains of this province, Rajasthan. The terrain varies across this province - from dusty polluted cities, to an oasis in the middle of the desert (Pushkar) to camel safaris in the sand dunes of the real desert, to this hill station of Udapiur, and all its majestic palaces.
But stories, she asks? Ok, let me pull some from the furthest corners of my memory... Pushkar evoked a series of different emotions from Nechama and I. This was the place we spent Yom Kippur - I find fasting difficult in Melbourne, especially towards the last couple hours - but here? In Pushkar? In the middle of a frickin desert? No water? What the? We arrived the day before the festival, and shopped within the sprawling marketplace and got cheated by Brahmin 'priests' promising blessings for our family in return for a nice donation. "But I don't believe in your god" - that doesn't work either, for "everyone's gods are the same -it's just different ways to reach up there" was the reply. Laden with flowers, rice, red and saffron coloured powder I threw caution (and the 'gifts') into the holy water of Pushkar. I understand that I prombably commited idolatry, but in my heart I didn't believeI word I was saying. The ideal situation the day of Erev Yom Kippur. Such a heathen I've become.
The meal before the fast was relaxed and comforting - most of the Israelis wore white and we ate in the back garden of the Chabad shule. The services were quite nice, a little different from Shira Hadasha but what can you do.
But stories - hrmm... that night we met up with an Indian who we previousdly met in Jaipur. He was a funny guy, 31 years old but acting like a little boy - he had just discovered alchohol three months ago. Now he's on a mission to drink for the next three - because "it's so much fun!" Excited and jittery like a toddler discovering a new toy, we learnt that he had smuggled meat and whiskey into the town (as Pushkar is a very holy city, no meat, alchohol or eggs are allowed to be brought into the city). He revelaed to us that six years ago he used to read palms, and then proceeded the read Nechama's palm... We have never been so freaked out. So apt, and we gave nothing away. I am usually quite cynical in situations like this - but when he was massaging her neck to get the 'bad energy' (or STRESS) his hand became white and his arm numb. It was freaky!
Ok, gotta run. Thinking of you all xx
Tuesday, October 03, 2006
Roadtripping Rajasthan
Living it up on the Royal Tour of Rajasthan... I swear we are being spoilt rotten and I LOVE IT! So. Where to start. It's always a problem of finding out where to begin, because the days seem to melt into one another and I can't believe I've already been in India for four weeks. Nearly. But still, four weeks. Long time, man. So, where did we really begin...
Agra, aside from hosting the majestic Taj Mahal and a lovely fort (there's forts in every city around here) didn't have much more appeal, and so we quickly left after taking one hundred thousand photos of the Taj to be on our way to Bharatpur. Bharatpur, you say? Where the hell is that?! Almost nobody we've met has heard of it, but its a village in the middle of nowhere that houses a UN Heritage listed National Park and Bird Sanctuary. And now I can't believe I can't remember its name. Against my instinct we went to the Bird Sanctuary in the late afternoon (I remembered from feeding the birds in Port Douglas that the best time is in the morning... I should learn to speak up more, eh) but we managed to spot some lovely owls, mountain lizards (they're few and far between), spotted deer, turtles, antelopes and a heap of cows (but what's new, we're in india!)
The next day we made our way to Jaipur, where we spent the afternoon at the Amber Fort, exploring the many hidden corridors and openings to give way to spectacular views. It was the end of a special Hindu festival (a couple days before Disharra/Ramen) and the fort was crammed with people - women in saris of lime, magenta and saffron, kids shouting and ducking in between the adults. The heat however made it a little unbearable to stay more than an hour - by the time we reached the bottom of this spectacular fort we were wet (like we had seriously just taken a shower) with perspiration. I will put up some pics of this when I get the chance ( I know I keep saying this, but time is short around here.. when I arrive in Goa I will have all the time in the world..) That evening we met a New Yorker who had been lied to by yes, the one and only Nazir, the travel agent in Delhi. Enraged and shaken at being scammed (for New Yorkers are too smart to be scammed!:P) we bought some drinks and some takeout and had a party in our hotel room. Cheap whiskey (AUD$1.10!!) and beers aren't for the light hearted in India -the bottle shops close early and we had the make the most out of it!
The next day we explored the City Palace in the suffocating heat (which, we learn now in Jodhpur, really wasn't so bad compared to here) and this is where I learnt of my fascination with armory and weapons - who knew? Sarah is obsessed with swords. After many power shortages and moments spent in desperation standing in front of fans, we left - I would write more, but there's nothing much else. (Can you tell the heat is getting to me?)
Alright, I have to go, but there will be a more extensive update very soon. Yom Kippur in Pushkar - well, I've never hated fasting and standing up in shule more than that... but that's for another time. Keep those comments flowing - I love hearing from you too! xxxx
Agra, aside from hosting the majestic Taj Mahal and a lovely fort (there's forts in every city around here) didn't have much more appeal, and so we quickly left after taking one hundred thousand photos of the Taj to be on our way to Bharatpur. Bharatpur, you say? Where the hell is that?! Almost nobody we've met has heard of it, but its a village in the middle of nowhere that houses a UN Heritage listed National Park and Bird Sanctuary. And now I can't believe I can't remember its name. Against my instinct we went to the Bird Sanctuary in the late afternoon (I remembered from feeding the birds in Port Douglas that the best time is in the morning... I should learn to speak up more, eh) but we managed to spot some lovely owls, mountain lizards (they're few and far between), spotted deer, turtles, antelopes and a heap of cows (but what's new, we're in india!)
The next day we made our way to Jaipur, where we spent the afternoon at the Amber Fort, exploring the many hidden corridors and openings to give way to spectacular views. It was the end of a special Hindu festival (a couple days before Disharra/Ramen) and the fort was crammed with people - women in saris of lime, magenta and saffron, kids shouting and ducking in between the adults. The heat however made it a little unbearable to stay more than an hour - by the time we reached the bottom of this spectacular fort we were wet (like we had seriously just taken a shower) with perspiration. I will put up some pics of this when I get the chance ( I know I keep saying this, but time is short around here.. when I arrive in Goa I will have all the time in the world..) That evening we met a New Yorker who had been lied to by yes, the one and only Nazir, the travel agent in Delhi. Enraged and shaken at being scammed (for New Yorkers are too smart to be scammed!:P) we bought some drinks and some takeout and had a party in our hotel room. Cheap whiskey (AUD$1.10!!) and beers aren't for the light hearted in India -the bottle shops close early and we had the make the most out of it!
The next day we explored the City Palace in the suffocating heat (which, we learn now in Jodhpur, really wasn't so bad compared to here) and this is where I learnt of my fascination with armory and weapons - who knew? Sarah is obsessed with swords. After many power shortages and moments spent in desperation standing in front of fans, we left - I would write more, but there's nothing much else. (Can you tell the heat is getting to me?)
Alright, I have to go, but there will be a more extensive update very soon. Yom Kippur in Pushkar - well, I've never hated fasting and standing up in shule more than that... but that's for another time. Keep those comments flowing - I love hearing from you too! xxxx
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